Tay was the first high performance surfer I could really follow. Well I was the one having a car so he didn’t really get a choice. More seriously I heard about his long history of board breaking and I started liking the character before I even met him.
What I really liked surf wise about Tay is that he never hesitates. From a 2 foot fat beach break to a 6 foot hollow slab, Tay will not hesitate. I liked the fact he would get absolutely pounded and come up laughing. We had a few sessions on waves that were not even makable but his energy was making it fun, and I was really dying to see his 5.9′ break.
I admit it took me a long time to accept that I will miss out on epic session but that it was worth staying out and shooting tay. If I had a water housing then I would have definitely destroyed Tay’s unofficial nickname « 2ft tay ».
Tay, why did you start surfing ?
« I started surfing because my dad did it and I wanted to surf like him. He surfed his all life ! So when I was six I started like him in Pines Beach (NZ). »
Why do you surf ?
« Probably the unknown. The unknown of what kind of wave is gonna be my next one. It’s every time a new challenge, a new thrill. New spots tends to excite me more, but saying that, I kind of like riding at home on a wave I know. »
Why will you keep surfing ?
« The unknown again, I love the idea of discovering new waves. I guess I will keep traveling, searching for better or different waves, maybe new cultures.. and also go back to places I have been to with a different mindset, see how I evolved compare to those waves. »
Do you have new goals in surfing ?
I used to do comps but .. yeah, It’s not really my thing… I would surf good and feel really good about myself before a contest, and then during a heat, I would never perform to my potential. I realized I would rather travel around trying to find good, uncrowded waves
Now it’s to keep searching for new waves, or waves I haven’t ridden. Be surf fit and still be able to be as stoked in 30 years after a good surf. Because of all the coaching I do like to see kids getting waves. Some guys in their fifties are like » I used to go surfing » I don’t wanna be that guy, I wanna surf with my kids.
I would say it is kind of an addiction I need my dose of surf to feel good in life. »
What’s your favorite manoeuvre?
Barrel Riding, Because I think, when you get barreled, everything slows down completely, you are in the instant, you truly live the moment, you do not think about anything else. Nothing at all. And there is only two options: make it or not. and that is the one thing that is in your mind only. »
Who inspired you as a surfer ?
« First my dad, I started because of him. Cody, Sam Courtney, my other mate Douglas, and then as far as your are gonna talk « big dogs », Taj Burrow, I used to read his book every night, this book is sick, it explains everything from waxing a board until throwing airs. Andy Irons as well, his style, raw. »
What’s your favorite wave/waves ?
« I love winter river mouths at home in New Zealand because there is no crowds. I guess i’ll have to say Kirra when it’s on. It’s a better wave but it’s crowded ! I like barreling wave, not necessary huge but heavy! »
Is there things you dislike while surfing?
« Crowds. Funny because I live on the gold coast. Hassling as well but I still seems to get waves luckily (laughs). »
Taylor Is the first surfer I decided to follow and committed to get the best shots as I can of even though I would miss a lot of great sessions.